a surfing life; what does this really mean. as ever there are many and varied opinions from full professional mayhem to the so named soul surfer who follows the vagaries of the ocean on his or hers own terms. it’s a view of the world. like anything it’s not for everyone. at some point in time a view appears that can capture the imagination. if one chooses to follow, there is no turning back. 

a fascinating idea, one in which we are all implicated in our own specific way, although usually none the wiser. always in retrospect events seem to have there own way. in the case of surfing it’s ways can be very addictive but not in the usual sense of the word. it’s more an addiction to being on this planet. surfers have their own distinct view which broadly could be construed as somewhat wholistic unless they too are under the spell of the money/material paradigm.

it’s a good life. I have been involved for fifty years so I do have something to say. I would not have it any other way.