it was a very different day. a big low had sucked up a lot of very cold air from antarctica. that’s a long way, even by australian standards. a big, wild sea and cold, very cold.

there is always a core crew who seam to relish in such conditions. in spite of the limitations of their gear they persist. really hard work for seemingly very little and the cold, the cold. in spite of everything, moral is high; sacrifices are made just to be there. this spot does not work very often. it needs a  very particular weather event such as that which  occurred on this day.  not for everyone but perhaps that is what attracts this group in the first place.

big rain squalls come through at almost regular intervals. the sky darkens, heralding what is to come. those in the car park scurry for the shelter of their vehicles. I with my camera continue as best i can until finally retreating to shelter to await the passing of the squall. yet again it passes and so to continue shooting until I can do no more.

conversation ensues as i pass among the watchers, a banter on what is unfolding as we watch. the dialogue with surfers has it’s own way. it is something i truly love, born of common ground and understanding. after all, i am one of them. I know the ways of the surfer.

there is something of great value about the way of these things. surfing is but one example. the pursuit of this in some purist sense, far away from the hype of professionalism just for it’s own sake because it matters, because the heart dictates. this is what matters, this is what makes surfing what  it is, this is what makes it absolutely authentic.

trev.